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Wastegate Kit and Actuator Adjustments

Old 08-08-2006, 03:45 AM
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Kevin
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Default Wastegate Kit and Actuator Adjustments

Two frequent emails that I receive from 996TT owners are...

How can I raise my boost level on my existing Tuned program. And

How can I adjust my wastegates..

Typically one can crank up the actuators to increase the spring tension or increase the actuator "spring rate". This method is very limited and in most cases can only provide a tenth of a bar increase. On the top end of scale we see boost increase, but more importantly we will see a stronger pull through the midrange RPM. This occurs because the increased spring rate forces the wastegate flapper closed longer. Please remember that the exhaust entering the turbocharger is trying to exit thru the wastegate "GATE" due to the path of least resistance. The end result allows the turbine wheel to spool quicker and longer.

With stock K16's one can adjust the tension on the actuators 2-3mm, and yield yourself some nice gains that you can actually feel.

With Stock K24's one can also achieve the same goals.. While both turbochargers benifit from a minor adjustment the K24's will see more enlightment with the installation of a "wastegate spring kit"

Here's a picture of my wastegate kit. I designed it for the stock actuator. It allows one to keep the stock linkages vs having someone bend and cut a aftermarket Garrett actuator to fit the KKK turbochargers. The springs have been engineered for the KKK turbochargers.



Here is a picture showing them installed.



If one has a 1 bar "Tuned" program, one will see at least 1.2-1.25 bars. This kit is not for the faint of heart.. It does require a few adjustment if one overboosts and the ECU slams the throttle-body shut. This usually ranges from 1.25-1.3 bars..

A word of caution.. One does not want to exceed 1.2 bars with the stock K24's.. At 1.2 bars the compressor wheel is on it's ragged edge. Anything higher and you are just pumping hot air into your engine..

I do not recommend this kit on stock K16's.. One risks overspeeding them, and at greater than 1 bar they are pretty much spent.

Last edited by Kevin; 08-08-2006 at 04:06 AM.
Old 08-08-2006, 07:42 AM
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Rickard 993 Turbo
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Kevin

So if i have Gt2 with

FVD Ecu
Race pipes
DV
BMC filter in stock air box
Those WG from you

What can i execpt 525-550hp..?

Do you think i need the WG and will the FVD box support the uppgrded WG..?
Old 08-08-2006, 10:10 AM
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Gary (Fl)
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Originally Posted by Kevin
This kit is not for the faint of heart.. It does require a few adjustment if one overboosts and the ECU slams the throttle-body shut. This usually ranges from 1.25-1.3 bars..

A word of caution.. One does not want to exceed 1.2 bars with the stock K24's.. At 1.2 bars the compressor wheel is on it's ragged edge. Anything higher and you are just pumping hot air into your engine..
I installed Kevin's spring kit on my K24's and the improvement was awesome. I was running GIAC stage IV then and I did have the TB shutdown on several occaisions with the new springs... If your in the throttle hard and you boost about 1.3-1.35 you WILL shutdown your TB unless your programming or tunning handles it. I played with wastegate adjustments several times and as Kevin say's it's not for the faint of heart as it is trial and error for the novice. I decided to go a different route with tunning and once I installed an electronic boost controller and took boost control away from the ECU I was able to control the boost and eliminate the TB shutdown issue. Car runs like a champ now...
Old 08-08-2006, 01:34 PM
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Kevin
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As Gary said, one can run the boost that high, but it is not wise with Stock K24's.. They are spent at 1.2 bars.. With the stock K24's it is the early boost transistion and midrange that these springs really help.

Rickard, you aren't going to get 550HP without camshafts. The kit will help, whether or not your ECU will be able to control the boost depends on the condition of your MAF.
Old 08-09-2006, 02:30 AM
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kevin, what's the outer flange and hardware made from? SS? can you pre adjust the length of the rod like the EVO version for specific bar setting? what's the price?
Old 08-09-2006, 02:47 AM
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Oak all the hardware is Stainless, clamps and fasteners.

The adjustment is made at the wastegate arm.

The spring rate is tailored for this application. I've had many hours installing and reinstalling springs to get the correct rates. And more importantly the correct geometry. The KKK adjustment will and should range from 29mm to 30mm.. If you basically keep the stock adjustment of the jamb nuts you will gat 1.2 bars with "most" Programs.. Depending on "boost maps" you might have to adjust the nuts accordingly.

Price is $295.00
Old 08-09-2006, 07:25 AM
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Gary (Fl)
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Originally Posted by Kevin
Oak all the hardware is Stainless, clamps and fasteners.
And they fit like a glove.... Very well made...
Old 08-09-2006, 07:36 AM
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How does a novice do the K16's adjustment is there a DIY on this? I'm seeing 0.9bar/1.0bar (occasional peak) so I probably should leave it as it is...what do you say?
Old 08-09-2006, 11:55 AM
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Oak
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gary, how do you split open the fact spring body to replace the spring?
Old 08-09-2006, 12:59 PM
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I recommend a belt sander, some will use a dremel.

The casing is sheet metal. It takes me about 5 minutes to carefully grind the outer rolled edge of sheet metal. Always wear safety glasses. The unit is under tension from the spring.
Old 08-09-2006, 01:54 PM
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kevin thanks for the info. seems like the metal body would be suseptible to corrosion/leak once you grind off the zinc plating off. especially where the it's located it would oxidsize in no time. wouldn't take much corrosion to ruin the integrity of the spring. is there some type of O-ring/gasket in between the two halves?

kevin, why not offer a compete new re-plated/resealed type of replacement? That would be a complete package.
Old 08-09-2006, 02:11 PM
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Oak, the stainless clamp halves seal the cut edge. You also grab a small paint brush and apply primer to the one edge. You can also apply a sealer to the stainless clamp halves to prevent any migration of water. Oak there is no seal to prevent water from entering the inside of the actuator. The springs are coated to prevent corrosion in the manufacturing process. All water evaporates with the high local temps of the turbine housing..

The cost of tooling and added manufacturing would increase the kit price out of a affordable venture.
Old 08-09-2006, 02:20 PM
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Oak
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kevin, what is the advantage of this set up in comparison to the evo complete where you get the complete acuator already to bolt in?
Old 08-09-2006, 02:33 PM
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The advantage is that this system is designed with factory components. I also enlisted a spring manufacture to engineer springs specifically for this turbocharger. Put another way, there was some engineering applied to this product vs grabbing a actuator off a Garrett or similar turbocharger with higher spring rates and using a adjusting rod to limit or increase the spring tension.

Another benifit is that I someone wanted to install even higher spring rates one could just order different springs.
Old 08-09-2006, 02:37 PM
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Kevin, I may have to try a set. I have the FVD 24/26 will I have any problems?

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