need advice on PSS9 post-install issues
11-22-2006, 10:31 AM
#1
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need advice on PSS9 post-install issues
Finally got the front end finished. Had to re-die the drive shafts after the driveshaft nuts stripped and the dealer gave me the wrong replacement parts... but it's all together and torqed now!
I didn't adjust ride height, just went with how they came out of the box and the front end is WAY TOO low. the perches are set all the way down on the threaded bodies of the strut. I'm definitely going to need to raise it.
I'm planning on getting an alignment in about 1 week.
Drove it around and noticed the following issues:
1) At low speed, when going over a pothole, as the springs unload there is a weird very loud sound that sounds like springs hitting metal.
2) Steering is no longer aligned and to drive straight, I need to have the wheel turned slightly to the right
3) At medium speed right hand turns, there are sounds coming from the right front wheel well which sound like springs bouncing around on the strut
4) At medium speed, hard cornering, the front feels unstable and I think I'm experiencing understeer caused by bump steer. I assume this is because the ride height is set too low.
Anyone have any advice on how to troubleshoot these issues?
Thanks in advance!
I didn't adjust ride height, just went with how they came out of the box and the front end is WAY TOO low. the perches are set all the way down on the threaded bodies of the strut. I'm definitely going to need to raise it.
I'm planning on getting an alignment in about 1 week.
Drove it around and noticed the following issues:
1) At low speed, when going over a pothole, as the springs unload there is a weird very loud sound that sounds like springs hitting metal.
2) Steering is no longer aligned and to drive straight, I need to have the wheel turned slightly to the right
3) At medium speed right hand turns, there are sounds coming from the right front wheel well which sound like springs bouncing around on the strut
4) At medium speed, hard cornering, the front feels unstable and I think I'm experiencing understeer caused by bump steer. I assume this is because the ride height is set too low.
Anyone have any advice on how to troubleshoot these issues?
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by mtksurfj; 12-19-2018 at 09:49 PM.
11-22-2006, 10:42 AM
#2
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Hey Ross,
If the spring plate is set all the way on the bottom, that is the lowest ride height. You'll need to adjust the spring plate back up. It is also recommend to get a 4 wheel alignment after you install the kit.
You'll get used to the way it feels when cornering. I think the stiffness is what threw me off, but now it feels normal.
In regards to the noise, I've heard that the US kits don't come with some bushing. This makes it noisy. Supposedly, you can call Bilstein and get them to send you the parts. But I don't understand why they were missing in the first place.
If the spring plate is set all the way on the bottom, that is the lowest ride height. You'll need to adjust the spring plate back up. It is also recommend to get a 4 wheel alignment after you install the kit.
You'll get used to the way it feels when cornering. I think the stiffness is what threw me off, but now it feels normal.
In regards to the noise, I've heard that the US kits don't come with some bushing. This makes it noisy. Supposedly, you can call Bilstein and get them to send you the parts. But I don't understand why they were missing in the first place.
11-22-2006, 11:08 AM
#4
You use the bushing off the stock suspension (rubber bushing/washer). I would never drive a car that has the suspension replaced without getting alignment...this is very dangerous. As already said, you have them set too low and are probably hitting the bump stops
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11-22-2006, 03:25 PM
#9
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Do you have to access the rears from inside the car? I am about to install a factory Tequipment harness roll bar and I am planning on installing the same PSS'9s. Do you think it would be a good idea to install them before I put in the roll bar back there and linit the access?? 
11-22-2006, 04:23 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by live2shift
Do you have to access the rears from inside the car? I am about to install a factory Tequipment harness roll bar and I am planning on installing the same PSS'9s. Do you think it would be a good idea to install them before I put in the roll bar back there and linit the access??
ON another note... I too had the "spring" noise when travelling at any speed over bump, driveway, etc...
A friend of mine solved the same problem on his PSS9's on his M3 by lubing the bushing and spring.
I didn't trust that solution and went another direction.... I installed gt3 camber plates on the front and had some custom top perches fabricated on the front eliminating the bushing... The noise was created when the spring was rotating on the metal mounting bracket (part 3 in the diagram) and hung up causing the spring to bind and then release. The gt3 camber plates have a monoball on them that allows the spring and shock to rotate freely on the new top perches, plus it gives better turn in and allow me to get more than 3 degrees of camber...
I get the car back from my Indy today (oil leak that caused a short weekend at the track is finally fixed) I'll try to get a front wheel off and take a photo...
An old thread where I put photos of my "stock" PSS9 fronts...
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...highlight=PSS9
11-23-2006, 01:37 AM
#11
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rbarna,
Ride Height-Have you check this helpful link?
http://www.pca.org/panorama/sample_article_3.html
You should adjust the ride height, let the car sit for a day or two. Let it settle and take it for alignment.
I talked to various PSS9 installers. Most of the recommendations are to lower the car 40 to 50mm from factory spec.
FYI
BM
Ride Height-Have you check this helpful link?
http://www.pca.org/panorama/sample_article_3.html
You should adjust the ride height, let the car sit for a day or two. Let it settle and take it for alignment.
I talked to various PSS9 installers. Most of the recommendations are to lower the car 40 to 50mm from factory spec.
FYI
BM
11-23-2006, 01:16 PM
#12
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Hey rbarna - were the instructions I posted helpful? Did you find anything wrong in there? I'd love any feedback you might have - sounds like the driveshafts are a pain in the ***, but the rear should be easier.
I suspect four things: One, you should have re-used those bushings, two the whole thing's not tight enough, three you need to have the ride height higher, and four you need an alignment. The last two should be no surprise, and none of them are fatal.
The two pieces you left off should be under the triangular top mount piece, just as they were on the original unit. Make sure the bearings in that piece (#3 in your picture) are clean and in lubed. Your excluded pieces should sit right on top of the new spring.
One other thing - I was pretty firm (before) that F1 R1 works on the street, but on further use it's a bit brutal, so I've moving back to F2 R3 on the street and tightening up for the track.
Edit: I think SMR996 posted the wrong link to his photo, but I found it and it is very helpful.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/302500-pss9-front-end-noise.html
I suspect four things: One, you should have re-used those bushings, two the whole thing's not tight enough, three you need to have the ride height higher, and four you need an alignment. The last two should be no surprise, and none of them are fatal.
The two pieces you left off should be under the triangular top mount piece, just as they were on the original unit. Make sure the bearings in that piece (#3 in your picture) are clean and in lubed. Your excluded pieces should sit right on top of the new spring.
One other thing - I was pretty firm (before) that F1 R1 works on the street, but on further use it's a bit brutal, so I've moving back to F2 R3 on the street and tightening up for the track.
Edit: I think SMR996 posted the wrong link to his photo, but I found it and it is very helpful.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/302500-pss9-front-end-noise.html
11-23-2006, 02:14 PM
#13
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RamVA, your instructions were very helpful! I really appreciate your contribution to the process. I didn't find anything wrong with them. The rears were not hard at all, just a bit of muscling was required cause I did it without a helper.
I took the wheels off this morning and found a loose bolt or two. I also raised the ride height in the front so I can get 1.5 fingers in and have 2.5cm of thread exposed under the lower locknut on the strut body.
Took it for a ride and it's an improvement. Still have a twang when I turn the steering. I will have to put in those two parts I ommited on the first attempt... I'm hoping I can do it without taking the the wheel carrier off the drive shaft, some guy on rennlist told me he's done it a million times... I hope he's right. I'm not looking forward to doing the fronts a second time!
I took the wheels off this morning and found a loose bolt or two. I also raised the ride height in the front so I can get 1.5 fingers in and have 2.5cm of thread exposed under the lower locknut on the strut body.
Took it for a ride and it's an improvement. Still have a twang when I turn the steering. I will have to put in those two parts I ommited on the first attempt... I'm hoping I can do it without taking the the wheel carrier off the drive shaft, some guy on rennlist told me he's done it a million times... I hope he's right. I'm not looking forward to doing the fronts a second time!
11-23-2006, 03:05 PM
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You should be able to get those pieces on without taking the struts out. It may help to use a spring compressor while the unit is still in the wheel well, which should give you enough space to get the hardware off without pulling it out of the wheel well.
The bad news is you need two new locknuts for the top. I guess you could cheat and use threadlocker instead.
The bad news is you need two new locknuts for the top. I guess you could cheat and use threadlocker instead.
05-05-2007, 10:33 PM
#15
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So it's been a while since I've posted on this thread... accidentally went out and bought a Noble M400, so i've been distracted. Anyway, it's time to get an alignment and i'm going to start by bringing the car to my local tire shop that has one of those hunter laser machines for alignment.
What specs should I give them for ride height? toe? camber?
I'm more concerned with performance than looks. What is the right spec to give them?
Thanks!
What specs should I give them for ride height? toe? camber?
I'm more concerned with performance than looks. What is the right spec to give them?
Thanks!
Last edited by mtksurfj; 12-19-2018 at 09:49 PM.