lleroyb

Thanks to Samluke and others for the ideas and the display. I came up with a more or less permanent installation for a knock counter and blink code indicator. It requires drilling a few holes and a slot in the glove box but other than that is totally reversable. You have to open the glove box to see it or use it.

When I was using the temporary set up in the other thread I was not getting any counts.

On the way back from Wallace Idaho I started getting a dozen or so counts per full throttle & boost run. I think I got some low grade gas. When the tank went to half full I filled it again with 91 octane. I still got some counts but only two or three. I put some octane booster in and got one count running up though second and part of third up a hill, I got one count. Once this tank is low I will try again with all new gas.

nize

nice lou. where is the other end of that usb cable connected to, and where is this test port you are linking in on?

also, do you know which pins carry which signal?

ross255

I have just had a look at the same plug on my car.

It only has 4 wires? is this the same as yours? so kinda the same question as nize, which ones carry the signal

lleroyb

Sorry I was too stupid to be able to annotate the photos in the first post.

There are only four pins in the male end, at least that is the way I found mine.

In the photo there are seven pins from the extra plug I obtained locally. You only need four, positive 12 volts, negative 12 volts or ground, knock signal and the blink code terminal. The pins are numbered 1-12. Pin 1 is +12 volts with the key on, it has the red wire on it. Pin 2 is negative or ground all the time. Pin 4 is the knock signal, I chose a green wire for it. It goes to pin 3 on the counter. Pin 11 is the negative side for the blink code diode, a Radio Shack 12v LED. You connect the positive side of the diode to the same +12v as the counter. See the photo in the first post. The other pins in the even row are not being used. The pin in the #5 slot has the shield soldered to it, there is no female pin in that position. I just put it there to provide physical strength to retain the cable. If you only have four pins you will not be able to do this but you could put the shield on pin 2 with the black wire, then it would actually shield the other signals.

I used a USB cable for the wire so I could pass the connector thru a small slot. That enables me to remove the whole thing without removing the glove box or cutting wires. It is totally possible to take the glove box out and install everything then install the glove box, you don't need the USB cable. You could also make up the display end in the car, which at my age did not seem like fun. The way I mounted it you have to mount the display after installing the glove box mounting screw behind it. I chose to thread the bolt holes in the glove box so the screws would be captive.

I like this thing because it will tell me if I get some bad gas or if something else is going wrong.

Lou

testarossa_td

Looks like you are having fun.

TRP951

will it fit in the place of the clock? Mine is broken and that would be a great spot for it

lleroyb

I just had my clock out to change the bulb, it should be easy to replace the clock with the counter. I would probably destroy the clock and use the face to mount the counter on. Drop the glove box to get the wire there. Do you have a clock in your stereo? You could probably fit the diode in too, that would be cool.

Lou

TRP951

yeah I have a clock in my head unit, and the factory clock has a messed up screen. I will have to check this out I might do this

ross255

Lou
I have got mine up and running, I avent really had much chance to do any runs to check for knocking.

But I was wondering, do you get the led flashing up code 3-2 " overcharging pressure to high",

ie the klr senses there is too much boost because we have it set to 15psi(or higher than stock)
as this is supposedly a fault and would make the klr retard timing 6degrees. Just wondering if anyone else gets these codes.

lleroyb

No I don't, but I run the Weltmeister chip set and a 3mm WG shim. Boost peaks at 15 psi and runs a little below that. I just checked it the other day with a precision pressure gauge. Next time I dyno it I will make sure I get it logged too.

If you are running stock chips you should get the code at 15 psi, I would think.

FWIW in the hotter weather we have been having (for Seattle) I have been getting counts until I get the octane up to 93.5 or so by blending in 101 octane race gas.

Lou

JET951

would this counter work? the benifit is that it has a reset button

http://www.novalynx.com/260-2597.html

i really want to get a knock counter on my car before i go E85

xsboost90

i have a plastic panel w/ a knock counter glued into it- looks pretty factory but i put another piece in w/ the factory clock again...if anyone wants this one.

Fluidplay

excuse my ignorance, but what is this knock your trying to count? What does it sound like? Why does it occur?

hp18racer

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking

JET951

what kind of knock counter is it Dan?