DIY: Front Sway Bar Install
06-14-2010, 12:27 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
DIY: Front Sway Bar Install
So I've looked hight and low before I tackled this project and found nothing. Although this isn't the most difficult project, it isn't for the faint of heart or tools. The tie rod isn't the easiest to remove without damaging something and lowering the subframe can be intimidating.
At the bottom of the post there is a image of the subframe that I may reference from time to time.
1- Jack the car up. On a 997 you can jack the right side up enough to get both front wheels off the ground (love the stiff chassis). Put jack stands under the front jack pads as high as you can safely get it and block the rear wheels.
2- When all's safe and secure, get under the car and begin removing the under tray. There are 4 T30 screws where the bumper meets the under tray and the remainder are T25 (there are lots of them). Only the front tray needs to be removed but you'll need to remove 4 plastic 10mm nuts from the second panel in order to get the back of the front panel off.
3- Remove the two front wheels and put them somewhere safe. Remove the nut where the sway bar link attaches to the hub. You'll need to use a stubby wrench on the opposite side (back of the hub) to hold the nut steady while you back it off. When you remove the bolt and the sway bar link the hub may slide down the shaft of the strut. Put the new link kit (you should have adjustable link kits - see later for information) in place and just leave the bar end empty. No need to torque it now, you can go back later and torque everything.
4- Remove the 18mm nut from the tie rods. There are two ways to pop the tie rod without damaging the arm or boot. Option one is to purchase a tie rod/ball joint removal tool. It slips between the boot and the arm and as you tighten the bolt it presses the tie rod out with a hard loud snap. Option two is to use a good air hammer with a blunt end bit and hammer on the ear of the hub around where the tie rod goes through. DO NOT USE A 'PICKLE FORK"! You'll surely damage the boot.
5- Get under the car and find the 10mm bolts near the actual 5 and 6 numbers on the diagram. There are no arrows pointing to them and they're fairly small. They affix a support for coolant tubes and if you start lowering the frame before you remove them you could tug on the tubes and risk a coolant leak.
6- Stay under the car and get to work on the subframe. Take note that it will only drop about 4-6" because it's still attached at the top. The bolts are 18mm and usually aren't too tight. See the diagram at the bottom to ensure you've removed all of them. The sub frame will begin to drop. If it makes you feel safer you can just back the 7 and 8 bolts out but leave them attached.
7- There are two 15mm bolts to the left of the "5" and two to the right of the "6" in the diagram that hold the sway bar mounts. You'll need to use a 15mm wrench on the inside of the wheel well on the top of the subframe while you loosen it from the bottom. Take the bolts right out and remove the plate that holds the bar and bushing in place.
8- Look through the wheel well and you'll see the coolant tube support that you removed from the subframe. Reach into the area where the steering rack is and use a 10mm wrench to remove the top bolt of the support. This makes it easier to pull the bar out.
9- At this point you should be able to, with a little work, wiggle the bar out from between the subframe and the body. It's a little tough to get over the base of the thrust arm but with a little patience you'll get it out. I was able to leave my link kits on the bar.
10- Install the rubber bushings on new bar. I was using an RSS bar that was thicker and the rubber bushings didn't quite fit properly. It worked but the top plate the holds it all together bent a little when torquing it down.
Work backwards for reassembly.
Torque specs are as follows:
#5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 - 118 ft.lb.
#1, 2, 3, 4 - 74 ft.lb.
Tie rod - 56 ft.lb.
Swaybar link at hub - 64 ft.lb.
Swaybar link at bar - 64 ft.lb.
Wheel nuts - 100 ft.lb.
Once it's all back together, you really should get an alignment. There is a little slop in the subframe bolts and it'll throw the alignment out a bit. More importantly, the alignment shop should be able to dial out the preload in the drop links. If the car has been corner balanced, this is a must as the ride heights will vary at each corner and so should the drop link length. The car will be put the alignment rack and the drop links will be adjusted so that there is no load on the bar at your desired ride height. This will maintain consistent handling characteristics in right land left turns.
All in all this job should take you 2-4 hours your first time around unless you get 'while i'm in there' syndrome and decide to do any more suspension work (great time to put some solid bushings in!).
Enjoy and happy wrenching!
At the bottom of the post there is a image of the subframe that I may reference from time to time.
1- Jack the car up. On a 997 you can jack the right side up enough to get both front wheels off the ground (love the stiff chassis). Put jack stands under the front jack pads as high as you can safely get it and block the rear wheels.
2- When all's safe and secure, get under the car and begin removing the under tray. There are 4 T30 screws where the bumper meets the under tray and the remainder are T25 (there are lots of them). Only the front tray needs to be removed but you'll need to remove 4 plastic 10mm nuts from the second panel in order to get the back of the front panel off.
3- Remove the two front wheels and put them somewhere safe. Remove the nut where the sway bar link attaches to the hub. You'll need to use a stubby wrench on the opposite side (back of the hub) to hold the nut steady while you back it off. When you remove the bolt and the sway bar link the hub may slide down the shaft of the strut. Put the new link kit (you should have adjustable link kits - see later for information) in place and just leave the bar end empty. No need to torque it now, you can go back later and torque everything.
4- Remove the 18mm nut from the tie rods. There are two ways to pop the tie rod without damaging the arm or boot. Option one is to purchase a tie rod/ball joint removal tool. It slips between the boot and the arm and as you tighten the bolt it presses the tie rod out with a hard loud snap. Option two is to use a good air hammer with a blunt end bit and hammer on the ear of the hub around where the tie rod goes through. DO NOT USE A 'PICKLE FORK"! You'll surely damage the boot.
5- Get under the car and find the 10mm bolts near the actual 5 and 6 numbers on the diagram. There are no arrows pointing to them and they're fairly small. They affix a support for coolant tubes and if you start lowering the frame before you remove them you could tug on the tubes and risk a coolant leak.
6- Stay under the car and get to work on the subframe. Take note that it will only drop about 4-6" because it's still attached at the top. The bolts are 18mm and usually aren't too tight. See the diagram at the bottom to ensure you've removed all of them. The sub frame will begin to drop. If it makes you feel safer you can just back the 7 and 8 bolts out but leave them attached.
7- There are two 15mm bolts to the left of the "5" and two to the right of the "6" in the diagram that hold the sway bar mounts. You'll need to use a 15mm wrench on the inside of the wheel well on the top of the subframe while you loosen it from the bottom. Take the bolts right out and remove the plate that holds the bar and bushing in place.
8- Look through the wheel well and you'll see the coolant tube support that you removed from the subframe. Reach into the area where the steering rack is and use a 10mm wrench to remove the top bolt of the support. This makes it easier to pull the bar out.
9- At this point you should be able to, with a little work, wiggle the bar out from between the subframe and the body. It's a little tough to get over the base of the thrust arm but with a little patience you'll get it out. I was able to leave my link kits on the bar.
10- Install the rubber bushings on new bar. I was using an RSS bar that was thicker and the rubber bushings didn't quite fit properly. It worked but the top plate the holds it all together bent a little when torquing it down.
Work backwards for reassembly.
Torque specs are as follows:
#5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 - 118 ft.lb.
#1, 2, 3, 4 - 74 ft.lb.
Tie rod - 56 ft.lb.
Swaybar link at hub - 64 ft.lb.
Swaybar link at bar - 64 ft.lb.
Wheel nuts - 100 ft.lb.
Once it's all back together, you really should get an alignment. There is a little slop in the subframe bolts and it'll throw the alignment out a bit. More importantly, the alignment shop should be able to dial out the preload in the drop links. If the car has been corner balanced, this is a must as the ride heights will vary at each corner and so should the drop link length. The car will be put the alignment rack and the drop links will be adjusted so that there is no load on the bar at your desired ride height. This will maintain consistent handling characteristics in right land left turns.
All in all this job should take you 2-4 hours your first time around unless you get 'while i'm in there' syndrome and decide to do any more suspension work (great time to put some solid bushings in!).
Enjoy and happy wrenching!
Last edited by atr911; 06-14-2010 at 12:51 AM.
06-14-2010, 12:49 AM
#2
Thanks atr, I have been looking for this DIY for weeks. Just did a spring install and all went well.
One point, the Porsche docs I have show 63 ft lb (85Nm) for the swaybar link at the hub. Are you sure it is 85 ft lb and not Nm ?
dr
One point, the Porsche docs I have show 63 ft lb (85Nm) for the swaybar link at the hub. Are you sure it is 85 ft lb and not Nm ?
dr
06-14-2010, 12:56 AM
#4
Its a pretty important bolt.
There was a Cayman at the track a few months ago. Guess he didnt torque that link properly and the entire wheel carrier slid up on the strut shaft. I think the tire must have contacted the spring pan on the strut. Not sure how much damage there was.
There was a Cayman at the track a few months ago. Guess he didnt torque that link properly and the entire wheel carrier slid up on the strut shaft. I think the tire must have contacted the spring pan on the strut. Not sure how much damage there was.
06-24-2010, 02:41 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The subframe will drop about 6" and just hang there from the ball joints and thrust arms.
Adam
