mpeyser

My car came with master switch wired to neg term with pull wire poking out from under the hood. It does not kill the engine while running. Pretty sure current setup will not pass tech and is sub-optimal at best, although car has current log book and has passed tech in the past.
My preference is to have an additional master in the car so I can cut power and kill engine while upside down waiting for the corner workers. Either master switch will need to kill engine and cut power. Car still uses stock ignition switch so I can kill still engine from drivers seat, but this is not my prefered method.(I will eventually convert to push button start down the road.)
Any help or suggestions how others address this much appreciated. TIA.

BFT3.2

Small world, Im in Easton as well. What you need is the push button Cartek GT battery isolator. Has an external and an internal button so all power and ignition can be cut by corner worker or driver. I have this in my SPB and very happy with it, took a bit to figure out all the wiring but no problems in the end. If you don't want the hassle of installing then reach out to Bela at EPS right up the road in Waterbury to install or any other SPB needs.

You're correct that the car needs to have an external pull or button that will kill ignition and power when at 2K rpm.

mpeyser

Thanks for the quick response. Pretty sure I have solution using single throw, 2 pole switch, wiring ECU power to 2nd set of contacts. Will let you know how well this works. Thanks.

Nickshu

I believe you need to have a wire to the alternator circuit in order for it to kill the engine.

coss1600

Cartek requires you to cut fuel by tapping into the ignition. I have that kill switch just get it

Max-D

Go with Cartek, simple bulletproof solution

Have one in my car.

Ubermensch

No direct experience on my part, but Rennline also seems to have a solution which kills the ignition:

Battery Disconnect Switch (6 Pole) (rennline.com)
Remote Pull Cable Kit with Loop Handle (Works with all kill switches) (rennline.com)

mpeyser

Thanks to all who've responded. Solution is single throw, 2 pole switch wired to interrupt ECU circuit. Works great. Will wire in series to dash mounted duplicate master switch as well.

lowside67

This works as long as your rulebook only requires you to kill the engine. But most rulebooks say you must isolate the battery AND kill the engine I believe.
-Mark

mpeyser

Kills both engine and battery power as required.